KJ66 Conversies

[Gerald Rutten]

I noted too much gap between compressor blade and intake cover...

I think so too. Specially looking at the second segment of the curve. This is not very difficult to resolve. Try to put it straight into the lath and align it as good as possible. Than make pen stripes and scrape the compressor in. At the point where the compressor blades touches the casing very gently turn/machine it away and then try again....and again...and again. After about 1-2 hours you will have a perfect fit. Now you need to make a ring/shim to extend the casing forward again as this alignment is too close now. Did this operation several times on my old KJ66's, also after a front bearing failure which damaged the casing.

Best regards,
Gerald

 

[freestiler_it]

Thank You for your precious suggests... I worked a Lot this week and i can't work on the turbine But My coprojecter Peppe disassembled It and modified the cc iniection needles. ..he maked some curves To make needles touch the waĺls tubes like you suggested. Here some pictures

 

[freestiler_it]

 

[freestiler_it]

We made 2 Gr 130 the one assembled here never started yet and actually we are working on gr180 Project here some pictures

 

[freestiler_it]

 

[freestiler_it]

Actually for Gr 130 we are using 1.1mm external 0.8mm internal diameter needles To make the kero inition inside cc. Il It correct? Which kind offerte needles do you use?

 

[freestiler_it]

We checked the comp-intake Inner and we notised there is a gap But do you thing It might be related with temp increase? Or Just the fact that in decelleration fase It makes a sound like "bo bo bo bo" in italian we Say that the engine "borbotta" . Thank You again for your preciouse support we are Very glad to have. We will reassembly the 130 trying new modify and try to make a video. Stay in touch and please comment if you see something rong. ..thank you

 

[freestiler_it]

A Lot of questions : Can you please Tell us how much the diameter of the 12 tubes in cc? Actually we are using tubes with diameters 7mm external and 6mm internal... secondo question: do you use An o-ring on the anterior ball bearing inside the shaft cover?

 

[freestiler_it]

here other imagines. ..you Can see the detail of lubrification y

 

[G J Broekhuizen]

ball bearing

the ball bearing has been to hot.?
deformation is possible. and the ball bearing can not be used.

 

[freestiler_it]

Bearings are good They are new and works fine

 

[G J Broekhuizen]

bearing

Bearings are good They are new and works fine

it is a full ceramic bearing?

 

[freestiler_it]

It is

 

[freestiler_it]

It is

What do you thing about?

Actually for Gr 130 we are using 1.1mm external 0.8mm internal diameter needles To make the kero inition inside cc. Il It correct? Which kind offerte needles do you use?

We checked the comp-intake Inner and we notised there is a gap But do you thing It might be related with temp increase? Or Just the fact that in decelleration fase It makes a sound like "bo bo bo bo" in italian we Say that the engine "borbotta" . Thank You again for your preciouse support we are Very glad to have. We will reassembly the 130 trying new modify and try to make a video. Stay in touch and please comment if you see something rong. ..thank you

A Lot of questions : Can you please Tell us how much the diameter of the 12 tubes in cc? Actually we are using tubes with diameters 7mm external and 6mm internal... secondo question: do you use An o-ring on the anterior ball bearing inside the shaft cover?

 

[freestiler_it]

Thanck You Very much for your help [emoji4]

 

[G J Broekhuizen]

ceramic full bearing

It is

No one has good results with it.

 

[freestiler_it]

I thing we have a problemi with kero inition infact the Gerald suggest to curve the needles
Can be usefull we will try and if the problem stays we will consider the idea to substitute ball bearings. ...what bearings you use?

 

[G J Broekhuizen]

ball bearings

I thing we have a problemi with kero inition infact the Gerald suggest to curve the needles
Can be usefull we will try and if the problem stays we will consider the idea to substitute ball bearings. ...what bearings you use?

for testing skates bearings ceramic balls innerring adjusted for 11 balls.

if it is good I use grw 608 the preload must not be too high.

 

[freestiler_it]

After the modifications you suggested(curve the needles) we started again turbine and this is the result: sorry if the video is quite dark but we made It when there was no more light....you fortunatelly can see quite good the tipe of flame [media=youtube]1OJiWL0-coY[/media]
We didn't mount the exhaust cone because we valuated before the kind of flame and in My opinion the result was quite good: no more yellow flame. There is anyway a litle problem of temp : 45000 rpm with 620-640 degrees C. We tryed some accellerations to check the flame, we arrived At 75000rpm and temp 670 degrees C and turbine pusches! And no more 1meter yellow flame!
What you thing about that? How can we put down temp?

 

[Ger Kovacs]

The flame front in the combustion chamber is stil to much backward, from now on you must do 1 thing/change at the time elwise you will get lost and you not now what you are doing.
Did you solved the compressor intake gap by tuning the intake cover? because if you did not do that yet the flame will be throw even faster out of the exhaust now when the fitting of the compressor will be more thight, because the air amound and total engine inside pressure will be higher, in the more bad case the compressor will stall also earlyer, you don't want that.
First is to solve the airflow in the combustion chamber, first close the first ring intake holes by 1/3 just like Gerald did and try then make a hot run carefully offcourse :wink:
Remember 1 step at the time..................

For the rest it looks very good for a home builder, carry on.

Succes with it.